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Subway Sweater

designed by Subway Knitter

(copyright 2006 by Subway Knitter)

 

This is a modified version of my favorite (woven) summer shirt.  After designing the first version (the Spring Breeze Top) in 2005, I redesigned the pattern and incorporated a few sizing improvements.  Knit this sweater in wool to have something fun to wear in the winter.  Alternatively, knit this in a lighter fiber for something beautiful to wear on cool summer evenings.  Pair it with something dressy, or wear it with jeans.  This is a very versatile pattern that you can customize for your needs.  Enjoy!

 

Materials:  (for a warmer version) 

Jo Sharp Silkroad Aran Tweed, 85% wool, 10% silk, 5% cashmere, 104y/95m=50g

 7(7, 8, 8, 9, 9, 10, 10, 11) skeins [Please note: I used 8 skeins to knit the size 38.  The yarn quantities given for the other sizes are simply my best guess.  You might want to buy an extra skein or two, just in case.]

 

Sizes: (chest circumference of the garment--not the wearer): 32 (34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48)in

81(86, 91, 96, 101, 106, 112, 123)cm

Needles: US8 (or size needed to obtain correct gauge)

Notions: stitch holders (or spare lengths of yarn)

Gauge: 15 stitches and 22 rows per 4 inches (10 cm)  SWATCH!!

 

Abbreviations:

Dec: decrease

Inc: increase

K2Tog: knit 2 together

KW: knitwise

P2Tog: purl 2 together

PSSO: pass slipped stitch over

PW: purlwise

RS: right side

Sl: slip

StSt: stockinette stitch

TBL: through back loop

WS: wrong side

 

Decreases:

Left-leaning:

Knit Side: SSK (slip 2 stitches KW, return both stitches to the left needle, then K2Tog TBL).

Purl Side: P2Tog.

 

Right-leaning:

Knit Side: K1, Sl 1 KW, return both stitches to the left needle and PSSO).

Purl Side: Sl 2 PW, return stitches to the left needle, P2Tog TBL.

 

Increases (M1):

M1 Right slanting:

Knit Side:

1.  Insert left needle from back to front into the horizontal strand between the stitches.

2.  Knit the strand through front loop.

 

Purl Side:

1.  Insert left needle from back to front into the horizontal strand between the stitches.

2.  Purl the strand through front loop.

 

M1 Left slanting:

Knit Side:

1.  Insert left needle from front to back into the horizontal strand between the stitches.

2.  Knit the strand TBL.

 

Purl Side:

1.  Insert left needle from front to back.

2.  Purl the strand TBL.

 

V-Neck Edging:

This v-neck edging creates a flat, finished edge which does not curl. 

 

Decrease rows for the neck edging are worked as follows:

 

Right neck edge:

When the decrease is on a RS Row:  Knit together TBL the sl st and the picked-up loop, K1,   SSK, work across row.

 

When the decrease is on a WS Row:  Purl together the first stitch and the picked-up loop, P1, Sl 2 PW, return stitches to the left needle, P2Tog TBL.  Work across row.

 

Left neck edge:

When the decrease is on a RS Row:  Knit across to the last 4 stitches.  K1, Sl 1 KW, PSSO, K1, pick up the loop between the stitches and place it on the right needle.  Slip the last stitch KW.

When the decrease is on a WS Row:  Purl together the first stitch and the picked-up loop, P1, P2Tog.  Continue across row.

 

Non-decrease rows are also worked in the slip-stitch edging as above.  Follow the instruction above, ignoring the decreases.

 

Notes:

When picking up the loop for the neck & V-neck edging, pick up the loop from front to back.

 

If you use a provisional cast on, you might lose the first stitch when you later insert the needle and undo the cast-on chain to bind off.  Fear not!  Simply find a loop to pick up and recreate that stitch.

 

Throughout this pattern, I make crazy assumptions about your shape.  Check your measurements!  You might need to decrease more or less.  Your torso or arms might be longer or shorter than mine--if so, adjust the length!  Also, I assume that your hip and bust measurements are the same, and they probably are not.  You might need to increase to a larger or smaller dimension.  You might want longer or shorter armholes or wider sleeves.  If so, adjust the pattern!!

 

 

Back

CO 60(64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88, 92) stitches.  In this version I have included instructions for a 1-inch hem.  If you choose NOT to use a hem, ignore the hem instructions written below and work in StSt for 1 inch.

 

Work a 1-inch hem in StSt as follows:

 

Work 6 rows (ending with, i.e. just having worked a WS row)

 

Next Row (RS): Purl

 

Knit 6 rows, ending with (i.e. just having finished a WS row)

 

Next Row:  Knit each live stitch together with a loop from the cast-on edge.  This will close the hem.

 

Work 1 inch in StSt.

 

Begin Waist Shaping

 

RS Row: Dec. 1 stitch each side every 4 rows, 4 times total 52(56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 84) stitches remaining.

 

Work 2 inches in StSt, (i.e. just having finished a WS row) ending with a WS row.

 

Inc. 1 stitch each side every 4 rows, 4 times total 60(64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88, 92) stitches.

 

Work in StSt until piece measures 13(13, 13, 14.5, 14.5, 14.5, 15,15) in.; 33(33, 33, 36.75, 36.75, 36.75, 38, 38, 38) cm. above the hem's turning row (or, if you did not use a hem, the cast on edge) or whatever length matches the desired measurement from hip to armhole!  End with (i.e. just having finished) a WS row.

 

Shape Armhole

BO 4(4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 4, 5) stitches at the beginning of the next two rows 56(56, 60, 64, 68, 70, 74, 80, 82) stitches remaining.

 

BO 1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 5) stitches on each side of the next 2 rows 54 (54, 58, 62, 64, 66, 70, 72, 72) stitches remaining.

 

Dec. 1 stitch on each side every other row 3 (4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5) times.  6 (8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 10, 10) stitches decreased, and 48 (46, 50, 54, 56, 58, 62, 62, 62) stitches remaining.

 

Continue working until armhole height measures 6 (6.5, 7, 7, 7, 7, 8, 8, 8, 8)in.; 16.5(16.5, 17.75, 17.75, 17.75, 17.75, 20.3, 20.3, 20.3) cm., ending with (i.e. just having finished) a RS row.

 

Begin Neck and Shoulder Shaping

 

Shortrow shaping:

 

Row 1 (RS): Knit across until 4(4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6) stitches remain unworked.  Wrap the next stitch and turn the piece.

 

Row 2 (WS): Purl across until 4(4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6) stitches remain unworked.  Wrap the next stitch and turn the piece.

 

Row 3 (RS): Knit across until 8(8, 10, 10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 12) stitches remain unworked.  Wrap the next stitch and turn the piece.

 

Row 4 (WS): Purl across until 8(8, 10, 10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 12) stitches remain unworked.  Wrap the next stitch and turn the piece.

 

Row 5 (RS): Work acoss the row, picking up the wraps as you work those stitches, and BO center 24 (22, 22, 26, 24, 26, 26, 26, 26) stitches.

 

Place the live stitches on a holder or spare piece of yarn, and clip the sweater yarn.

 

Front

 

CO 60(64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88, 92) stitches.  If you desire a decorative edging, use a provisional cast on.  In this version I have included instructions for a 1-inch hem.  If you choose NOT to use a hem, ignore the hem instructions, and work as for the back (including all waist shaping) until the piece measures until piece measures 13(13, 13, 14.5, 14.5, 14.5, 15,15) in.; 33(33, 33, 36.75, 36.75, 36.75, 38, 38, 38) cm., ending with (i.e. just having finished) a WS row.

 

Begin armhole shaping as for the back.  When you have finished the armhole BOs, and are ready to beging the armhole decreases, begin the V-neck shaping (you are working both the armhole decreases and the V-neck decreases simultaneously).  Place one half of your live stitches on a spare yarn or holder, and begin the V-neck shaping on those stitches still on your needles.

 

Begin V-Neck Shaping, using the slip-stitch edging as described in the beginning of the pattern:

 

Dec. 1 stitch at the neck edge every 3(3, 3, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 2) rows 4(6, 8, 6, 9, 9, 4, 2, 4) times

 

Dec. 1 stitch at the neck edge every 4(3, 4, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 3) rows 6(7, 3, 9, 3, 3, 8, 2, 12) times.

 

Continue working, using the slip-stitch edging at the V-neck until the front armholes match the length of the back armholes.

 


Shape Shoulders

 

Follow the short-row shaping instructions for the back.

 

Sleeves (make 2)

 

CO 48 (48, 52, 52, 56, 56, 56, 60, 60) stitches.  If you desire, work a 1-inch hem as for the back.  Continue working until you have finished working a WS row

 

Begin bell shaping by decreasing as follows:

 

Starting with a RS row:

 

Dec 1 stitch at each end of every 4(4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 6, 6, 6)th row 3 times.  42 (42, 46, 46, 50, 50, 52, 54, 54) stitches

                

Continue working until sleeve measures:

10 (10, 10, 10.5, 10.5, 10.5, 11, 11, 11) in.; 25.5, (25.5, 25.5, 26.5, 26.5, 26.5, 28, 28, 28) cm. ending with (i.e. just having worked) a WS row.

 

Inc 1 stitch at each end of every 4(4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 6, 6, 6)th row 3 times.  48 (48, 52, 52, 56, 56, 56, 60, 60) stitches.

Work until piece measures 16(16, 16, 17, 17, 17, 17.5, 17.5, 17.5) in.; 40.5 (40.5, 43, 43, 43, 44.5, 44.5, 45.75, 45.75) cm.

 

Shape Cap

 

BO 4(4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 4, 5) stitches next 2 rows

 

Dec. 1 stitch at each end of every 1(1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 3, 2) rows 12(12, 6, 6, 5, 4, 10, 8, 12) times.

 

Dec. 1 stitch at each end of every 2(2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 3, 3) rows 5(5, 8, 8, 6, 7, 1, 6, 1) times

 

BO 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

 

BO the remaining 8 stitches.

 

Finishing

Wash and block the sweater pieces.  Seam together shoulders using the three-needle BO, then sew the sleeve and side seams.

 

Acknowledgments

The V-neck edging is my interpretation of instructions originally written by Kim Hargreaves for Rowan.