Fridays are For...

Sewing?

Perhaps. I doubt that I can make this a regular series, but in celebration of the Spiders' triumphant return to Brooklyn General today, I'm talking about more upcoming sewing projects.

Brooklyn General, as you might know, sells wonderful fabric. I certainly have been dreaming about it for a long time. At long last I'm ready to buy some of it to produce something cute for moi!

Sheepishly, though, I'll admit that I'm planning things a bit far in advance.

ButterMeUp0229.jpg

What can I say? It was $5. And, although my sewing prowess leaves much to be desired, I can already think of things I want to change on this pattern. First, I know (without even looking) that I'll need to lengthen the waist. I'm not extremely tall (5 feet 8--172cm, if you're being metric about it) but proportionally a lot of that height must be concentrated in my waist.

I might want to add a seam close to the base of the skirt, just to add a subtle detail. I haven't yet worked this out. Maybe I would change the direction of the fabric below the seam. Maybe I would use some piping at the seam. I don't know. I don't even know how hard it is to do something like that. And maybe, if it weren't too hard, I would add the same detail on the sleeves. Anyway, some advice/opinions from all the real seamstresses out there would be appreciated.

 

If you take your time, know when you are getting tired, and follow directions (which usually means going elsewhere for info that's not on the pattern because those instructions can be infuriatingly vague), I'm sure you will have no problem creating something wonderful. Especially if you are working with those beautiful fabrics...amy butler...amy butler...mmmm...

I've read instructions on how to lengthen a waist, but I've never done it (even though I have the same problem as you!). Sometimes there's even instructions on the pattern itself: it'll tell you to cut the pattern piece across the middle, add a strip of paper and tape it back together. Usually, there's dotted lines on the pattern to indicate where to insert the strip.
Have you thought about rick rack or a ribbon at the seam? There's tons of ribbons at BG :)

You do need to cut the pattern and add a strip of paper to lengthen it. I use back waist length (from the bone at the back of the neck to the waist) to figure how much to lengthen. You can do a muslin from any cheap fabric for fitting purposes. Sometimes the muslin is wearable, sometimes not.

I would not recommend adding anything to the hem of the skirt, because of the pleats. You can lengthen it by cutting it longer, but a seam or piping will not fold nicely into the pleats.

Dressmaking is my day job. Feel free to contact me.

I can offer no real advice, other than knowing my Mom has a book that advises on how to adjust patterns for various body variations: long waist, short waist, etc. I think it's by Sandra Betzina--she has several titles on Amazon.

that is one super cute pattern! i wish i'd made it to BG -- i forgot that we were going there, and i felt too tired to go to the point. i'm such an idiot.

I am 110% sure that I sewed that Butterick pattern way back when!

 

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